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What Do I need to get ready? 

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First you need to get a cage to accommodate how many rats you will have.  The basic rule is to have at least 2.0 Cubic Feet of space per rat.

The following information is taken from ratcare.org.

Choosing rat cage accessories can be as important as picking the right rat cage. Rats are complex little creatures and they need a living space that can meet their varied needs. Offer them a choice of surroundings and give them somewhere to be alone if that is they want. Think of your rats cage as a house, it will help you create different rooms for your rat to live in.

There is an increasingly wide range of cages in all shapes and sizes available in pet shops and on line, but only a few of them are suitable for rats. The cage you choose is going to be your rats home for the next 2 - 3 years and it is important that they are safe in it and that they feel comfortable. In our own homes we have several rooms; somewhere to eat, our bedroom, the lounge and it is important to consider how and if you’ll be able to create separate environments for your rats in one cage.

Why Not to Use Aquariums
  • Aquariums are wonderful homes for many types of rodents, but they are much more suited to gerbils and jirds rather than rats.
  • While the solid sides of an aquarium can keep out drafts , which rats don’t like, they also prevent the circulation of fresh air.
  • Their lack of ventilation means the ammonia that comes from rat urine will build up and make for an unpleasant home environment and it will also affect your rat’s health and ultimately shorten their life expectancy.
  • In the summer months living in an enclosed glass, or plastic, tank offers very little relief from the build up of heat.
  • Aquariums can also be difficult to set up an interesting home environment for your rats.
  • There are no bars to hang hammocks and toys from and nowhere for your rats to climb, which they love to do.

Why Wire Cages Are Best
  • Some wire cages are made especially for rats, but if they meet the needs below other types of wire cages can be used too.
  • Providing they are kept in a draft free place, and out of direct sunlight, a cage will provide a stimulating and healthy environment for your rats.
  • The wire bars provide great ventilation and allow you rats to smell and see the world outside their home.
  • A deep solid plastic base will provide somewhere secluded and shaded for a cozy floor level bed.
  • The plastic base will stop most litter being kicked out, but will not hold in harmful odors.
  • The bars make it easy to attach and rearrange hammocks and toys.

High Rise for Fun and Exercise
The wire cage top serves many purposes in the enhancement of your rats home. I have always felt their biggest advantage is allowing them to climb, which is good exercise for your rats while they are in their home. Rats need a lot of exercise and their home will play an important part in their daily activity. Even if your rats are not very active, having hammocks and toys high up will stimulate them and give them an incentive to climb and build up their muscles. This is especially useful if you take the opportunity to change things around when you clean them out. They love exploring to see what you have changed.

While rats love to climb and it’s certainly good for them, they can and do fall. The higher the cage the longer their potential drop to the floor. If you do get a particularly high cage it is worth using hammocks and shelves to make sure your rats cannot fall far enough to cause themselves serious harm.

Room Enough for Your Rats
Get as big a cage as you can, making sure you have room in your house. Your cage can never have too much floor space for your rats. There are plenty of cage calculators on the Internet to tell you how many rats a cage can house, but only use these as a guide. You should also take into account how much time you will be able to spend with your rats out of their cage. A large cage can in no way can make up for the freedom and adventure of spending time running about, but it will help if you are unable to spend long periods of time letting your rats out to exercise.

Ease of Access for Everyone
Unfortunately even some of the biggest rat cages come with small doors, which I have never understood. Despite the size my rats have grown to, whether huge males that need two hands to hold them safely, or my smallest females who fit snugly in the palm of my hand, when that door opens all the rats who live in that cage will come pouring out at once and a large door is required to stop any injuries or upsets.

A large door also gives you better access for cleaning the inside of the cage and playing with your rats in their home. Rats don’t always want to come out to play, they may prefer you to reach in and stroke them, or play with them and a large door enables you to do this.

Having a second large door in the roof of a cage is also advantageous when it comes to cleaning your rats out and rearranging their toys. It is also useful for getting hold of shy and nervous rats who won’t come to the main door.

Beware of Rat Escape Artists
One potential problem with wire cages is their bar spacing. Some of the best rat cages are actually designed for ferrets and can have quite widely spaced bars This can be a problem for young rats and small females, who may be able to squeeze through the bars, leaving them free to get into all kinds of rattie trouble when no one is watching.

One solution is to have different cages for the age of your rats. Young rats can start off with a smaller home, with more suitable bars and grow into their adult home. This has the added benefit of being less overwhelming if your new rats are particularly young and may find moving into a large home daunting. It may be a costly solution, but if you find a lovely large cage that is not suitable for the size of your rats and you don’t mind the expense then it is an option. You will still need to choose a cage that has plenty of room for your young rats as they have large amounts of energy to burn and cramping them into a small hamster cage will stunt their development.


Checklist for Rat Cage Happiness
  • Overall size matches the number of rats
  • No large drops to the cage floor
  • Door size for your access and for your rats
  • Bar spacing matches their age
  • Bonus - top door access
  • Room to hang hammocks, tubes and other toys

FOOD BOWLS AND WATER BOTTLES

Food and water are the most important things you will need to provide for your rats. Water bottles designed for small animals are readily available in all sizes. If you have 3 or more rats it is worth getting two smaller water bottles rather than one large one. This will stop your rats squabbling if they want a drink at the same time, which does happen a lot.


Although there are lots of different food bowls available, always choose one that is either attached to the side of the cage or a heavy ceramic one. Rats will stand on their food bowls and if they are not sturdy or secured in some way they will tip them up.

Metal food bowls, which hang of the wire sides of the cage, are good for keeping the bowl up off the floor of the cage, but if your rat likes to dig through the contents of the food bowl the food may get thrown out of their cage.

LITTER TRAYS

You may want to train your rats to use a litter tray. There are many on the market - in a whole range of sizes - that are designed to suit small animals. To litter train your rats you will need to only put your litter in this tray, otherwise rats will not know this is where they need to use the toilet.

HAMMOCKS AND IGLOOS

Rats like different places to sleep, sometimes its a preference and sometimes they just want to be alone. If you provide them with a range of places to sleep and hang out, then you’ll be enriching their living environment.

Starting from the bottom of the cage I always like to give my rats a cosy dark place. This could be anything from a store bought rat igloo to a an old plastic ice cream container with holes cut in it for doors. Whatever you use, make sure it is big enough to house all of your rats, otherwise this could lead to squabbling and someone getting left out. Another thing my rats have taught me about enclosed bed boxes is they appreciate two exits. Not only does this make them happy, but it provides extra ventilation, which is always a good thing.

Up off the floor you can’t go wrong with a rat hammock, as long as you make sure it is large enough for all your rats to sleep in as they will try and squeeze themselves in and you don’t want anyone falling out and injuring themselves. Rat hammocks are easily bought, and are often described as ferret hammocks, or you may wish to make your own. Old towels, clothes or squares of fabric tied up with rope all work fine.

I would also recommend at least one more enclosed bed high up. This could be a fabric hanging bed, which again can be easily bought or made if you have access to a sewing machine.

SHELVES AND TUBES

Shelves can provide extra living space for your rats, as well as being used to break up long drops in high cages to help prevent a fall. They can be a great place for rats to sit and watch what is going on outside their cage. You can also train your rats to go to a particular shelf when it is time to come out, which can be useful if your cage has hard to reach areas.

Plastic rat tubes and tunnels also provide a great place to hang out, as well as somewhere to sleep. Several can be connected together to make longer tubes and combined with corner sections you can create a fun tunnel system for your rats to explore. Rats love running around in tunnels and wriggling past each other and if you take the time to change things around when you clean their cage out you can make their home an exciting place to be.

TIPS

  • Make sure any soft furnishings you buy are machine washable
  • Give your rats plenty of choice where they sleep
  • Check bedding everyday to make sure its clean and dry
  • Provide some dust free nesting material so your rats can make themselves a little nest if they want

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